Mirror-mirror on the wall: a multi-semiotic and critical discourse analysis of Mr Price and H & M facebook advertisements

Abstract

The intention of this investigation was to examine how images of feminine beauty were constructed in the Facebook advertising of retailers Mr Price and H&M. The study examined whether western and European ideals of feminine beauty are perpetuated by these retailers as the standard of beauty in South Africa over a three-year period from 2016 to 2019. The study also explored how visual and linguistic resources are used in the retailers’ advertisements to generate meaning and contribute to reinforcing certain dominant discourses by propagating certain ideologies, beliefs and socio-cultural notions about female beauty in South Africa. Furthermore, the study investigated if change is taking place in the way feminine beauty is constructed in South Africa in the selected Facebook advertisements. Underpinned by the theoretical framework of cultural studies, specifically critical race studies, critical whiteness studies, and decoloniality, as well as feminism, and the methodological approaches of semiotics and discursive analysis, the selected images were subjected to a quantitative as well as a qualitative, multi-semiotic, critical discourse, and multimodal analysis. Both the quantitative and qualitative analyses incorporated the literature review in order to establish and interpret its relevance to the larger body of work on the topic of female beauty. A comparative analysis was also employed in order to contrast and compare the Facebook advertising of a local retailer (Mr Price) with that of an international retailer (H&M). From the comparative analysis, three prominent themes emerged. These are: Privileging white beauty, the glow of white women; The otherisation of Black women, and the illusion of inclusion; and finally, The politics of beauty. Findings revealed that the beauty of the white models were privileged, and therefore, they were positioned to glow. This showcased that there is a visual language of whiteness that is dominant. On the other hand, the Black models who appeared in the advertisements were stereotypically portrayed in a sexual, exotic manner, which placed them in the category of the “other”. Additionally, while there was a fair representation of Black models, their placement in the advertisements created only an illusion of inclusion. Also revealed was how the historical and political legacies of imperialism, colonialism, and apartheid continue to reinforce the dominant narrative that western and European beauty features are preferred, and therefore that is the ideal that is perpetuated by the media. On this basis, the study recommends that in-depth investigation into the portrayal of Black, South African women in advertising discourse be conducted. There needs to be a collaborative and ongoing research drive that includes the diverse cultural groups represented in South Africa. The project must ultimately demonstrate the overall ability of communication science as a discipline to make a tangible difference to social, political and cultural existence in South Africa.