An exploration of female consumers' perceptions of garment fit and the effect of personal values on emotions

Abstract

One of the greatest challenges facing the clothing industry worldwide, including South Africa is to provide well fitting garments to a broadly defined target population (Ashdown, Loker & Rucker 2007:1; Schofield, Ashdown, Hethorn, LaBat & Salusso 2006:147). Yu (2004:32) further states that from the consumers’ perspective, physical and psychological comfort as well as appearance play an important role in determining a well fitting garment and these are most likely to be shaped by the individual’s personal values. According to Kaiser (1998:290), personal values refer to standards or principles that guide an individual’s actions and thoughts that help to define what is important by guiding one’s choices or preferences of how the garment should fit. Hence garment fit and the subsequent appearance serves as a personal expression, communicating some personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:290) that can be achieved through the fitting of the garment. When female consumers encounter garment fit problems either through body shapes, garment sizing or garment size label communication, an emotional experience may result due to the failure to attain the personal values they are aiming to uphold or achieve. Cognitive appraisal theory of emotions is one of the theories among others that attempts to understand why people experience emotions. Lazarus (2001:55) defines cognitive appraisal theory of emotions as a quick evaluation of a situation with respect to one’s wellbeing. The answers to these evaluations directly cause the emotions experienced by a person. Since clothing can be used to express personal values to others (Kaiser 1998:146), the social standards appraisal dimension which can be one of the evaluative questions in the theory of cognitive appraisal concerning a situation, was the relevant evaluative component which this study focused on. This appraisal dimension evaluates whether the situation, in this case the negative experience of an ill-fitting garment affects what the consumer aspires to achieve socially through garment fit. Numerous studies such as Horwaton and Lee (2010); Pisut and Connell (2007) and Alexander, Connell & Presley (2005) on the garment fit problems from a consumer’s perspective have mostly been conducted in developed countries with limited research focusing on the consumers and their emotional experiences with garment fit. Understanding the factors that contribution to the garment fit problem currently being faced by female consumers in South Africa is an essential step in creating awareness of how this problem affects female consumers emotionally and the influence it has on their purchasing decisions. The purpose of this study is, therefore, to determine the female consumers’ personal values attributed to garment fit and to identify the emotions resulting from the perceptions of garment fit. This study predominantly employed an exploratory qualitative research approach. Data were collected from a purposive and convenient sample of 62 females from the UNISA – Florida Campus and King David High School in Victory Park in Johannesburg, South Africa through a self-administered questionnaire. Data on the demographic profile that included the ethnicity and age of the participants as well as data on the psychographic profile of the participants concerning frequently patronized clothing retailers, garment fit preferences and self-reported body shapes were collected through closed-ended questions. These data were analysed using the quantitative method of descriptive analysis. In addition to the psychographic profile of the most frequently patronized clothing retailer and garment fit preferences, participants were further requested to provide reasons as to why they mostly patronized the clothing retailer they ranked number 1, and to provide a reason for their preferred garment fit option. Content analysis, a qualitative method, was used to analyse the reasons provided by the participants for both these questions. Content analysis was also performed on additional information on body shape and garment sizing as well as data on garment size label communication. Furthermore, the means-end chain approach through the hard laddering exercises was used to explore and determine the female consumers’ personal values and emotions depicted through the perceptions of garment fit. Data from the hard laddering interviews on body shapes and garment sizing were carefully coded and categorized into attributes, consequences and personal values. Data were presented through the hierarchical value maps (HVMs) which were constructed through the software program Mecanalyst V 9.1. The analysis established that attributes such as quality of garments, various garment styles, availability of sizes, and fashionable styles directed female consumers’ most frequented clothing retailers. These attributes seemed to be aligned with their personal values they seek when shopping for garments. The findings also showed that most female consumers in this study preferred semi-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general, a reasonable number of the participants preferred tight-fitting pants (31%), and some participants preferred loose-fitting pants, a blouse and garments in general. The specific personal values such as the comfortability of the garment, modesty, cover-up perceived body shape “flaws” and slimming effect which female consumers in this study desire to achieved through clothing also influenced their garment fit preference. With regard to the perceived self-reported body shapes of the participants, the study reflected that the majority of the participants were triangular body shaped. The study further found that female consumers in this study have expectations of how a garment ought to fit their body. Their expectations seem to be shaped by certain personal values such as “confidence”, “freedom” or “look good” which they aspire to achieve through clothing and garment fit. However, due to variations in body shapes, problems of garment sizing they encounter when purchasing ready-to wear garments and the incorrect information communicated on the size labels or the lack thereof, the majority of the female consumers failed to achieve their personal values. As a result mainly negative emotions such as “frustrated”, “sad”, “confused” and “depressed” were expressed by the participants. With regards to the effect of the perceived garment fit on the purchasing decision, the study found that fit of the garment is an important determinant of making a purchase. However, where female consumers in this study showed an interest of purchasing, while aware of some fit problems, the study found that exceptional conditions such as the possibility of altering the garments and design features such as colours that would conceal their perceived “figure flaws, made it easier for them to decide to purchase. The study further highlighted that some participants only purchased their ready-to-wear garment at certain shops where their needs were catered for and only when they had enough time to try-on the garment they intend to purchase instead of relying on the garment sizing and garment size label communication. Where participants indicated they would not purchase a garment with fitting problems, the study found that some female consumers in this study copied the designs of the garments in the clothing retailers and had someone reproduce it for them, whilst a few female consumers refused to purchase a garment whose size label was incorrectly communicated. Lastly the study also revealed that most female consumers thought that body shape, garment sizing and garment size label communication contribute to garment fit problems female consumers are currently facing in South Africa. It is, therefore, recommended that clothing manufacturers consider the various body shapes in their garment charts, know the needs of their target market and also use uniform sizing and size labelling systems that are easily understood by consumers that purchase ready-to-wear garments from retailers in South Africa.